Portugal · Europe

Algarve

Golden cliffs, hidden coves and 300 days of sunshine – the Algarve is Europe’s south-western corner, and Carvoeiro its most beautiful part.

Best time to goApril to June and September to November; mild and empty in winter
Recommended duration5–7 days, easy to combine with 3 days in Lisbon
Price levelmedium – cheap outside the summer holidays

Why the Algarve?

The rocky coast between Carvoeiro and Lagos is the most beautiful thing Portugal has to offer by the sea: ochre cliffs, rock arches and caves eaten into the sandstone by the sea, and in between small coves often reached by stairs. Add a climate that still allows terrace weather even in December – I was there in winter, and the sunsets over the bay were different every evening.

Carvoeiro is a good base: small enough to do everything on foot, and right in the middle of the rocky coast. The cliff path Percurso dos Sete Vales Suspensos starts here (six kilometres to Praia da Marinha, one of Europe’s most beautiful beaches), the boat trips to the Benagil cave leave just around the corner, and Lagos, Silves and Faro are half an hour away.

The journey from Lisbon is an experience in itself: three hours over the Vasco da Gama Bridge and through the Alentejo, cork oaks to the horizon and a stork’s nest on almost every pylon.

How I book the Algarve

I stayed at the Tivoli Carvoeiro, right on the cliffs above Vale Covo bay – I book the hotel through Booking.com (my hotel page below). You need a car in the Algarve, the coves and villages are scattered; I compare rental cars on Discover Cars and pick mine up in Lisbon or at Faro airport. The boat trip to the Benagil cave I book ahead via GetYourGuide, in summer the places are gone days in advance.

If you prefer to organise it yourself: the bus from Lisbon to Portimão takes three hours (Rede Expressos), boats to Benagil are also available on the spot at Benagil beach, but with no guarantee of a seat.

My tips for the Algarve

  • Walk the Sete Vales Suspensos cliff path early in the morning, with water and a hat – no shade, but the finest views on the coast.
  • See the Benagil cave from a boat or kayak; swimming in is forbidden and dangerous because of the current.
  • Choose the off-season: in July and August Carvoeiro is packed, in October or March you have the beaches almost to yourself.
  • Try cataplana – the fish and shellfish stew in the copper pan is the dish of the Algarve.

My photos from the Algarve

Where to stay?

The Tivoli Carvoeiro stands right on the cliff above Vale Covo bay – from the balcony you see the rock arch, the cliff path starts at the door. I know it myself and recommend it without reservation.

Find accommodation in the Algarve

I almost always compare hotels and apartments on Booking.com – with genuine reviews and usually free cancellation.

See accommodation in the Algarve Compare on Hotels.com Holiday rental on Vrbo
Affiliate links: if you book I earn a small commission – the price stays the same for you, and sometimes you even get an extra discount. Hotels.com is worth it for comparing prices and for the loyalty programme (every tenth night free), Vrbo for holiday homes and apartments.

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