Seasonal tips · Winter

Sicily – a few weeks of south when the fog rolls in at home

Retirees have something working people lack: time. And in November, January or March there is hardly a better place to spend it than Sicily. While central Europe sits under a blanket of fog, the island has over 300 days of sunshine a year, mild winters and a spring that starts as early as February. My suggestion: not one week but three or four – then a holiday becomes a slice of everyday life under palm trees.

And yes: Sicily is my own next project too. I have not been there yet – the full planning with route, ferry and places to stay is on the new Sicily page, and as soon as I am back, my own experiences will follow.

Sicily is more than beaches: Etna, its summit white in winter, Greek temples at Agrigento and Segesta, Syracuse with the old-town island of Ortigia, Taormina above the sea, Cefalù with its cathedral on the beach, baroque towns like Noto and Ragusa – several of them UNESCO World Heritage. And the food: pasta alla Norma, arancini, cannoli, fish from the market, wine from Etna. Mediterranean, fresh, and menus cost half of what we pay at home.

Snow-capped Etna above Taormina – in winter you can ski in the morning and sit by the sea in the afternoon.
Snow-capped Etna above Taormina – in winter you can ski in the morning and sit by the sea in the afternoon.
Taormina, Piazza IX Aprile – Sicily’s balcony, with views of Etna and the coast.
Taormina, Piazza IX Aprile – Sicily’s balcony, with views of Etna and the coast.
Scala dei Turchi near Agrigento – white marl cliffs stepping down into the sea.
Scala dei Turchi near Agrigento – white marl cliffs stepping down into the sea.
The Doric temple of Segesta – 2,400 years old, alone in the hills, never completed.
The Doric temple of Segesta – 2,400 years old, alone in the hills, never completed.
Valley of the Temples, Agrigento: the Temple of Juno on the ridge – UNESCO World Heritage.
Valley of the Temples, Agrigento: the Temple of Juno on the ridge – UNESCO World Heritage.
Noto – honey-coloured baroque, rebuilt from scratch after the 1693 earthquake.
Noto – honey-coloured baroque, rebuilt from scratch after the 1693 earthquake.
Marzamemi on the south-east coast – in the evening the piazza in front of the old tuna factory fills up.
Marzamemi on the south-east coast – in the evening the piazza in front of the old tuna factory fills up.
Mondello, Palermo’s city beach – still swimming weather in October.
Mondello, Palermo’s city beach – still swimming weather in October.

Why a longer stay is worth it

  • Climate – In winter 15 to 18 degrees by day, lots of sun, hardly any rain on the south coast. Hiking, cycling and golf all year round.
  • Costs – Holiday flats, restaurants, groceries and coffee are much cheaper than in Switzerland. Out of season you get sea-view flats for monthly prices that would cover a week at home.
  • People – Sicilians are warm and curious. Stay a few weeks in the same town and you will soon greet the baker by his first name.
  • Pace – Away from Palermo and Catania, daily life runs slowly: market in the morning, espresso on the piazza, a walk by the sea, dinner at nine.
  • Getting there – Direct flights Zurich–Catania and Zurich–Palermo (Edelweiss, SWISS, easyJet) or by car: overnight ferry Genoa–Palermo, about 20 hours – ideal if you stay longer and want to bring your bike or motorcycle.

My tip for a base: the east coast between Taormina and Syracuse for culture and Etna; Cefalù or the Trapani area for peace and beaches. Two bases of two weeks each, with a move by hire car in between – that way you see the whole island without packing every day. And if in the end you cannot tear yourself away: Italy tempts foreign retirees who move to small towns in the south with a low flat tax – but that is a subject of its own.

Places to stay in SicilyBooking.com – hotels and apartments; monthly discounts in winter. Hotels in TaorminaBooking.com – east coast, views of Etna and the sea. Hotels in CefalùBooking.com – north coast, old town right on the beach. Car hire in SicilyDiscover Cars – price comparison from Catania and Palermo, full cover without excess available. Ferry to Sicilyfaehreonline – Genoa–Palermo and Livorno–Palermo, take your car or motorcycle along.

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