Twice, in 2023 and 2024, I stood in Calle Larios at the end of November when Málaga switched on its Christmas lights: 2.7 million lights in over 500 streets, a canopy of light over the whole pedestrian street, music, thousands of people – and then everything comes on. One of the finest winter experiences of recent years, and it doesn't cost a penny. Here is my concrete five-day proposal: two nights in Málaga for the lights, then three days around Estepona – from there you get everywhere quickly.
My video from Calle Larios: the show with the canopy of lights – and the crowd that comes every evening for it.
What to expect
Calle Marqués de Larios – just «Larios» to everyone – is the wide shopping street that climbs from the Alameda to Plaza de la Constitución. Every year the city builds a themed canopy of light over it, and three times an evening a light-and-music show runs across it, the first at around 6.30 pm. On both my visits the spectacle, with everything around it, lasted 15 to 30 minutes; the street was already full an hour before. Either come early – or watch the second show, when it is a little more relaxed. There are no shows on 24 and 31 December.
The lights stay on until 6 January, the Reyes. That means anyone in Andalusia over New Year or in the first week of January still sees them, while at home the tree is already out on the pavement. And once more, because so many people search for it: there are no tickets. The show is a street; you simply stand in it. Only the offers around it cost money – bus tours, guided walks and the light trail in the La Concepción botanical garden on the edge of town, which is a different, quieter evening (for families with small children, booking required).
Second video, second evening: «Feliz Navidad» over the Larios, the tree of lights on the square – and once again the whole city out on the streets.
More than the Larios
The mistake would be to see the show and leave. The Alameda Principal right next to it has a big installation and is far easier to photograph, because you can step back. At the harbour, Muelle Uno, ten minutes on foot, the waterfront promenade is lit, with market stalls and a children's programme – the walk out to the La Farola lighthouse and back is the quietest part of the evening. In the evening the city projects a video mapping onto the façade of the cathedral. And the nativity scenes: in Spain the Belén is a competitive discipline, the big one of the Diputación stands until early January, and almost every old-town church has its own – worth going in. The three Christmas markets (Paseo del Parque, Muelle Uno, in front of El Corte Inglés) are Spanish craft markets: ceramics, jewellery, turrón. No mulled wine, no bratwurst. Have a look, then eat somewhere with a roof.
Where I stayed and where I ate
Both times at the Only YOU Hotel Málaga on the Alameda Principal – right in the centre, two minutes from the Larios, roof terrace, and after the show I could simply cross the road to bed. From there it is four minutes on foot to the Taberna del Pintxo Larios: you take a plate, help yourself to cold pintxos at the bar, the warm ones are carried round, and at the end the waiter counts the skewers. Before for an aperitif, after for dinner – simply heavenly, and one of the best pintxos places in the centre.
My route: two nights in Málaga, three days in Estepona
This is how I would do it – and how I know it: fly from Zurich to Málaga on Friday (Swiss and Edelweiss nonstop, just under three hours; from Germany direct flights from almost every city), two nights at the Only YOU, the show on Friday evening, Saturday the harbour, cathedral, Atarazanas market and the Picasso Museum – Picasso was a Malagueño; I visited the museum in the Palacio de Buenavista too, a good hour, book tickets in advance –, in the evening the second round of lights without the crush of switch-on night. On Sunday collect the hire car at the airport and drive an hour to Estepona, on the quieter side of the Costa del Sol. From there you get everywhere quickly: Gibraltar in 40 minutes (the apes' rock, the tunnels, fish and chips), Ronda with its gorge in an hour, Marbella and its old town with the Christmas lights in 20 minutes, Jerez with a sherry bodega in two hours. Three days, three outings, and in the evening you watch the sun set behind the Rock of Gibraltar from your balcony. In December it is 17 to 18 degrees by day and hotels cost half the summer price. My detailed route with all the outings is on the Andalusia page.
Four things I did better the second time
- Hotel within walking distance of the Larios: after the show no taxi and no bus gets out of the centre, everyone wants to leave at once. Walking back to the hotel is worth its weight in gold.
- Eat before the show, not after: at 8 pm every place in the centre is full. Pintxos at 5.30 pm, then into the street.
- Second show instead of the first: the 6.30 pm show is the fullest. If you come at 8 pm you stand more comfortably and see just as much.
- Bring a jacket: 18 degrees by day, but after the show at the harbour it is December – 11, 12 degrees.
Your Málaga tip
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The links lead to partners; if you book, I receive a small commission – the price does not change for you. Photos and video: my own, Málaga November 2023 and 2024. Dates and times without guarantee – the Ayuntamiento de Málaga programme is authoritative.