Spain · Europe

Andalusia

From the Costa del Sol to Gibraltar, Ronda, Jerez and Córdoba – by car through southern Spain, between sherry, olive groves and Moorish palaces.

Best time to goMarch to June and September to November; mild on the coast in winter, cool and empty in Córdoba
Recommended duration7–10 days based on the coast with day trips
Price levelmedium – food and hotels in the hinterland very cheap

Why Andalusia?

Andalusia is the Spain you have in your head: white villages, flamenco, sherry, bullrings, Moorish palaces – and 300 days of sunshine. I based myself in Estepona, on the quieter side of the Costa del Sol, and made day trips from there: Gibraltar in 40 minutes, Ronda in an hour, Jerez in two, Córdoba in three. From the balcony I watched the sun set behind the Rock of Gibraltar every evening and, on clear days, the mountains of Morocco behind it.

The trips are all different: Gibraltar is a piece of England with monkeys, Ronda sits on top of a 120-metre gorge, Jerez is the city of sherry and horses, and Córdoba has in the Mezquita perhaps the most impressive building in Spain – a mosque with 850 columns into which a cathedral was built.

In between, the landscape: olive groves to the horizon, the black Osborne bull by the motorway, cork oaks and wind turbines. Andalusia is best driven yourself.

How I book Andalusia

I stay at the Grand Hotel Las Dunas in Estepona, right by the sea – bookable via Booking.com (my hotel page below). Without a car you won’t get far in Andalusia: I compare rental cars on Discover Cars and pick mine up at Málaga airport, from where Estepona is an hour away. For the Mezquita in Córdoba, the Alhambra in Granada (months in advance!) and the bodega tour in Jerez I book tickets ahead via GetYourGuide – otherwise you queue on site or don’t get any at all.

Hotels in EsteponaBooking.com – beachfront or old town; free cancellation. Rental cars from MálagaDiscover Cars – all rental companies compared, full coverage without excess available. Tickets & toursGetYourGuide – Mezquita Córdoba, Alhambra, sherry bodega in Jerez, Gibraltar tour with the monkey rock.

If you organise everything yourself: Mezquita tickets are available online from the cathedral, bodega tours directly from González Byass or Tío Pepe, and for Gibraltar you drive to La Línea, park there and walk across the border – driving in isn’t worth it.

My tips for Andalusia

  • Gibraltar on foot: park the car in La Línea, bring your passport, walk across the runway – and don’t feed the monkeys up on the rock, they steal everything.
  • Ronda early in the morning: the coaches from Málaga arrive from eleven, then the bridge is packed. Before that you have the view almost to yourself.
  • Visit a bodega in Jerez and drink well-chilled Fino or Manzanilla with tapas – it has nothing to do with the sweet sherry of old.
  • Córdoba: the Mezquita opens at 10 am, Monday to Saturday between 8.30 and 9.30 admission is free – but without a guide and with little time.
  • Buy jamón in the supermarket, not the souvenir shop: a whole Ibérico ham costs 60 to 200 euros there, vacuum-packed it survives the journey home.

My photos from Andalusia

Costa del Sol: Estepona and Marbella

Sunset from the balcony in Estepona – on the horizon the Rock of Gibraltar, Africa behind it.
Sunset from the balcony in Estepona – on the horizon the Rock of Gibraltar, Africa behind it.
Different every evening: the bay of Estepona with Gibraltar against the light.
Different every evening: the bay of Estepona with Gibraltar against the light.
Palm trees and moon over Estepona.
Palm trees and moon over Estepona.
The old town of Estepona – white lanes, blue flowerpots, every street in a different colour.
The old town of Estepona – white lanes, blue flowerpots, every street in a different colour.
Courtyard café – the patio is Andalusia’s living room.
Courtyard café – the patio is Andalusia’s living room.
The seafront promenade of Marbella – palm trees, pebble mosaics and a view of the Sierra Blanca.
The seafront promenade of Marbella – palm trees, pebble mosaics and a view of the Sierra Blanca.
Dalí sculpture on the Avenida del Mar in Marbella – ten bronzes by the master stand in the open on the promenade.
Dalí sculpture on the Avenida del Mar in Marbella – ten bronzes by the master stand in the open on the promenade.
Organic Market & Food in Marbella – breakfast and lunch under the reed roof.
Organic Market & Food in Marbella – breakfast and lunch under the reed roof.

Gibraltar

At the Landport Gate in Gibraltar – passport in hand across the border, and you’re in Great Britain.
At the Landport Gate in Gibraltar – passport in hand across the border, and you’re in Great Britain.
The Rock of Gibraltar from La Línea – 426 metres, with the airport runway in between, which you cross on foot.
The Rock of Gibraltar from La Línea – 426 metres, with the airport runway in between, which you cross on foot.
Red Royal Mail post box on Main Street – pounds, fish and chips and bobbies, but the sun is Spanish.
Red Royal Mail post box on Main Street – pounds, fish and chips and bobbies, but the sun is Spanish.

Ronda

Puente Nuevo in Ronda – the “new” bridge of 1793 spans the 120-metre-deep gorge of the Guadalevín.
Puente Nuevo in Ronda – the “new” bridge of 1793 spans the 120-metre-deep gorge of the Guadalevín.
The Tajo of Ronda – the houses stand right on the edge, the viewing platform is not for the faint-hearted.
The Tajo of Ronda – the houses stand right on the edge, the viewing platform is not for the faint-hearted.

Jerez de la Frontera

Plaza del Arenal in Jerez de la Frontera with the equestrian statue of Primo de Rivera and the fountains.
Plaza del Arenal in Jerez de la Frontera with the equestrian statue of Primo de Rivera and the fountains.
The baroque portal of Jerez cathedral – Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassical in one building.
The baroque portal of Jerez cathedral – Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassical in one building.
Plaza de la Asunción with the old town hall (Cabildo Viejo) of 1575 – one of the prettiest squares in the city.
Plaza de la Asunción with the old town hall (Cabildo Viejo) of 1575 – one of the prettiest squares in the city.
The Tío Pepe weathervane above the bodegas of González Byass – Jerez is the capital of sherry, a bodega tour is a must.
The Tío Pepe weathervane above the bodegas of González Byass – Jerez is the capital of sherry, a bodega tour is a must.

Córdoba

The Roman bridge over the Guadalquivir, the Mezquita behind it – the view you come to Córdoba for.
The Roman bridge over the Guadalquivir, the Mezquita behind it – the view you come to Córdoba for.
The Molino de la Albolafia waterwheel on the Guadalquivir, the Alcázar behind it – the Moors already used it to water the gardens.
The Molino de la Albolafia waterwheel on the Guadalquivir, the Alcázar behind it – the Moors already used it to water the gardens.
The bell tower of the Mezquita, built around the old minaret – 54 metres, with the best view in the city from the top.
The bell tower of the Mezquita, built around the old minaret – 54 metres, with the best view in the city from the top.
Patio de los Naranjos – the orange courtyard of the Mezquita, in winter the fruit hangs on the trees.
Patio de los Naranjos – the orange courtyard of the Mezquita, in winter the fruit hangs on the trees.
Plaza del Triunfo by the Mezquita – neo-Moorish houses, souvenir shops and the tourist office.
Plaza del Triunfo by the Mezquita – neo-Moorish houses, souvenir shops and the tourist office.
Triunfo de San Rafael – the archangel Raphael, patron saint of Córdoba, on his column in front of the Mezquita.
Triunfo de San Rafael – the archangel Raphael, patron saint of Córdoba, on his column in front of the Mezquita.
Patio in the Judería – Córdoba’s courtyards are famous, in May there is the patio festival.
Patio in the Judería – Córdoba’s courtyards are famous, in May there is the patio festival.
Stone patio with fountain – cool even at 40 degrees.
Stone patio with fountain – cool even at 40 degrees.

On the road

The Osborne bull by the motorway – 14 metres of sheet metal, once a sherry advert, today a symbol of Spain (more than 90 of them stand across the country).
The Osborne bull by the motorway – 14 metres of sheet metal, once a sherry advert, today a symbol of Spain (more than 90 of them stand across the country).
Olive groves to the horizon – Andalusia produces more olive oil than the whole of Italy.
Olive groves to the horizon – Andalusia produces more olive oil than the whole of Italy.
Jamón section in the supermarket – whole Ibérico hams from 59 euros, the good bellota legs from 185.
Jamón section in the supermarket – whole Ibérico hams from 59 euros, the good bellota legs from 185.

Where to stay?

Estepona is the ideal base: quieter than Marbella, cheaper than Puerto Banús, with a pretty old town and a hotel I know myself – the Grand Hotel Las Dunas right on the beach, with the sunset over Gibraltar from the balcony.

Grand Hotel Las Dunas
Estepona · Costa del Sol

Five-star hotel right on the beach between Estepona and Marbella – my base for the trips to Gibraltar, Ronda and Córdoba.

Second tip in Estepona, especially for wintering: The Flag Hotel (adults only). And if you drive down from the north, stop overnight at the Parador de El Saler near Valencia – with golf course and beach.

Find accommodation in Andalusia

I almost always compare hotels and apartments on Booking.com – with genuine reviews and usually free cancellation.

See accommodation in Andalusia Compare on Hotels.com Holiday rental on Vrbo
Affiliate links: if you book I earn a small commission – the price stays the same for you, and sometimes you even get an extra discount. Hotels.com is worth it for comparing prices and for the loyalty programme (every tenth night free), Vrbo for holiday homes and apartments.

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