Honestly, up front: I haven't been to Madeira yet. The island has been on my list for years, and because I'm considering it for this winter myself, I did my homework – climate, levadas, the new hiking rules, hotels. Here is what I learned. If you've been there: your tips below are very welcome, they help me and everyone else.
Why Madeira in winter – and why not
Madeira is a winter destination for walkers and people who like the good life, not for beach holidays. In Funchal it is around 19 degrees by day and 13 at night in January and February, with about five hours of sunshine a day – and eight to nine rainy days a month. The island is green all year; in winter the strelitzias and camellias bloom. From Zurich, Edelweiss flies nonstop to Funchal in just over four hours, twice a week in winter too; from Germany there are direct flights from many cities.
The honest side: Madeira has practically no sandy beaches – you swim in seawater pools at the Lido or at the small artificial beaches of Calheta and Machico; the real beach is on the neighbouring island of Porto Santo (two hours by ferry). The sea is 18 degrees. And in the north and in the mountains it rains regularly in winter, while the south coast around Funchal and Ponta do Sol stays dry. If you want guaranteed sun on the beach, the Canaries are the better choice.
Levadas: the walks I have in mind
The levadas are centuries-old irrigation channels with narrow paths running alongside – mostly almost level, so suitable for over-60 knees too. Three are on my list: the Levada das 25 Fontes near Rabaçal (about eleven kilometres, to the 25 springs and the Risco waterfall), the Levada do Caldeirão Verde from Queimadas (13 kilometres, through tunnels, bring a head torch) and, to start with, the Vereda dos Balcões – only three kilometres, with a view of the highest peaks. The ridge walk from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo is the island's most famous hike, open again since April 2026 after two years of closure – but demanding and weather-dependent in winter.
Funchal and the island in a week
A week is enough for a good first impression: two days in Funchal – the Mercado dos Lavradores in the morning, the cable car up to Monte and the famous wicker toboggans down, in the evening espetada (beef on a laurel skewer) and a glass of Madeira wine. Then two levada days, a day on the north coast with the natural pools of Porto Moniz and the thatched houses of Santana, a day in the west with Ponta do Sol and sunset at Cabo Girão, one of the highest sea cliffs in Europe. A hire car is practically a must; the roads are good but steep and winding – automatic is worth it.
Where I would stay
Three places that kept coming up in my research – recommended by readers, with very good reviews, much cheaper in winter than in summer. I haven't tested them myself yet:
How I would book Madeira
Four things I noted down
- Book the south coast, visit the north: Funchal, Câmara de Lobos and Ponta do Sol are the driest in winter; the north coast is a day trip.
- Reserve the trails in advance – mandatory since 2026, see above. The weather in the mountains can change by the hour: windproof jacket and a second layer always with you.
- Hire car with automatic: Madeira's gradients are among the steepest in Europe, up to 25 percent even in town.
- New Year's Eve in Funchal is considered one of the biggest fireworks displays in Europe – if you want to be there then, book months ahead.
Your tips – you've been there
Here I collect your Madeira experiences: levadas, restaurants, hotels, the best month. The first tips will appear as soon as they arrive – with first names.
Your Madeira tip
Been to Madeira? Tell me what was worth it – I check the tips and publish the best ones here with your first name. I'm curious myself.
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The links lead to partners; if you book, I receive a small commission – the price does not change for you. Photos: Unsplash (Mick Waanders, Reiseuhu, Hikerwise.com, Arnaud Padallé), free to use.