Waterfalls, glaciers, volcanoes and northern lights – Iceland is a journey to another planet.
Best time to goJune to August (midnight sun) or September to March (northern lights)
Recommended duration8–10 days for the south, 12–14 for the Ring Road
Price levelhigh
Why Iceland?
Nowhere else have I seen so much landscape in so few miles: the Skógafoss waterfall thunders 60 metres down, and beyond it lie black beaches, glacier tongues and the icebergs of the Jökulsárlón lagoon – all along a single road.
Iceland is expensive, but nature is free. With a hire car and a tent or simple guesthouses, the budget stays within reason. Petrol and food are the biggest items.
The Icelandic horses by the roadside are curious and trusting – a stop is part of the trip. But please don’t feed them, however pleadingly they look at you.
How I book Iceland
Iceland is a self-drive country, but that doesn’t mean you have to piece everything together yourself. I have done best with specialist operators who know Iceland: they put together hire cars or campervans, hotels and tours at fair prices, and you have someone on the ground to call when the weather changes your plans. These are the operators I recommend – the links take you straight to their offers:
If you would rather put it all together yourself, you can of course do that too: choose the route, book the hotels one by one, pick up the car at the airport. It takes a little more time but works well – the hotel tips below and the car-hire comparison will help. The only thing I would steer clear of are the anonymous package sellers charging double for the same hotels and cars.
Tours I recommend
If you would rather not drive yourself: these are the most-booked Iceland tours on TourRadar – all from Reykjavík, with guide, hotels and breakfast, the Ring Road in six to eight days.
Prices are indicative, converted from TourRadar prices (as of November 2026, per person in a double room, rate 1 US$ = 0.82 CHF); TourRadar shows the exact price in francs when you click, free cancellation depending on the operator. Operator photos from TourRadar, the other pictures are my own. Affiliate links: if you book through one of these links I earn a small commission – the price stays the same for you, and sometimes you even get an extra discount.
Live selection from TourRadar – prices in your currency, updates automatically.
My photos from Iceland
I took all the pictures myself – on the road with a hire car around the Golden Circle, along the south coast to the glacier lagoon and in Reykjavík.
Strokkur geyser – an eruption every few minutes
Strokkur in the Geysir area on the Golden Circle shoots a column of water up to 20 metres high every 5–10 minutes – best to wait for a few eruptions.
Golden Circle and south coast
Kerið – the crater lake on the Golden Circle, red lava around turquoise water.Eyjafjallajökull – the volcano that grounded air traffic in 2010; the visitor centre is right on the Ring Road.Black lava beach on the south coast – the waves here are dangerous, never stand with your back to the sea.A break on the lava rock at the black beach.Lupins as far as the eye can see – in June and July they turn half of Iceland purple.Signpost in Skaftafell National Park – the starting point for glacier hikes.In front of the Svínafellsjökull glacier tongue.Jökulsárlón – icebergs drift out of the glacier lagoon into the sea.Diamond Beach: the chunks of ice from the lagoon wash up on the black sand.Puffins nest on the cliffs in summer – very close, but please keep your distance.Puffin on the cliff edge – they are here from June to early August.Inside a turf house – this is how Icelanders lived for centuries.Blue Lagoon near Grindavík – milky-blue thermal water in the middle of a lava field.
Reykjavík
Hallgrímskirkja – Reykjavík’s 74-metre landmark; the façade echoes the island’s basalt columns, and the tower offers the best view over the city.The rainbow street Skólavörðustígur leads straight up to Hallgrímskirkja.Colourful Reykjavík – hardly a house without colour.Street art on Laugavegur, the capital’s shopping street.Café Babalú – a small, quirky café on Skólavörðustígur; the cakes and soup are excellent.Blue wooden house in the old town – typical: corrugated iron, boldly painted.Red wooden house with a garden in the middle of Reykjavík.Black wooden house in Reykjavík.Ingólfur Arnarson, Iceland’s first settler, on Arnarhóll hill above the harbour.Scallops – fresh every day in Iceland, but much smaller than the ones we know at home.Fish and chips with cod – the standard dish, good everywhere.
Nature, animals and seasons
Icelandic horses by the roadside: curious, trusting, everywhere.Snow-capped mountains in the north – even in June it can still be white here.Icelandic horses in the snow – they stay outdoors all year round.Birch forest with lupins – one of the island’s few forests.Willow catkins in the Icelandic spring.Icelandic sheepdogs – the island’s old herding breed, friendly and curious like the horses.
My tips for Iceland
A 4x4 hire car if you are planning highland tracks (F-roads); a normal car is enough for the Ring Road.
Check the weather hourly (vedur.is) – it changes faster than you think.
The Blue Lagoon is lovely but pricey. The Sky Lagoon near Reykjavík or the local swimming pools are the more relaxed alternative.
Where to stay?
Six hotels along the Ring Road where I have stayed myself – clockwise from the Blue Lagoon via Reykjavík, the south coast and the Eastfjords up to the north. All can be booked directly on Booking.com; in summer, reserve months ahead.
Affiliate links: if you book I earn a small commission – the price stays the same for you, and sometimes you even get an extra discount. Hotels.com is worth it for comparing prices and for the loyalty programme (every tenth night free), Vrbo for holiday homes and apartments.