Italy · Europe

Sardinia

Turquoise water, granite rocks, mountain villages and six hotels I have stayed in myself – Sardinia is my favourite island.

Best time to goMay, June and September – warm, but without the high-season crowds
Recommended duration10–14 days by car
Price levelmedium

Why Sardinia?

Sardinia is not one island but five: the Costa Smeralda with Porto Cervo in the north-east, the Catalan town of Alghero in the north-west, the wild mountains around Dorgali and Cala Gonone in the east, the mining coast near Buggerru in the south-west and the white beaches of Villasimius in the south. Every corner has its own food, its own dialects, its own landscape.

I prefer to tour the island by motorcycle or car, with two to three nights per region. The island is also ideal for cycling tours. Sardinia is known for spectacular views and landscapes. The roads are empty, the passes in the interior spectacular, and on every coast there is a cove you can only reach on foot or by boat.

I have stayed in all the hotels below myself. All can be booked on Booking.com – the links lead directly to each property.

My photos from Sardinia

All pictures taken by me – by motorcycle through the interior, by boat in the archipelago, on foot in the villages.

On Sardinia’s roads

Sardinian traffic rule: whoever is bigger has right of way. Cows, sheep and goats regularly stand in the road in the hinterland – stop and wait, especially on a motorcycle.

North: Gallura, Costa Smeralda and La Maddalena

View from the Bear Rock (Capo d’Orso) near Palau over the bay and the La Maddalena archipelago.
View from the Bear Rock (Capo d’Orso) near Palau over the bay and the La Maddalena archipelago.
The Bear Rock – a granite block shaped by the wind over 300 million years; a seamark already in antiquity.
The Bear Rock – a granite block shaped by the wind over 300 million years; a seamark already in antiquity.
Capo d’Orso from below: the bear sits right on top of the hill, 15 minutes on foot from the car park.
Capo d’Orso from below: the bear sits right on top of the hill, 15 minutes on foot from the car park.
Granite formations near Palau – holes, spikes and caves, as if someone had sculpted the rock.
Granite formations near Palau – holes, spikes and caves, as if someone had sculpted the rock.
Capo Testa near Santa Teresa Gallura – wind-polished granite, on the horizon the white cliffs of Bonifacio in Corsica.
Capo Testa near Santa Teresa Gallura – wind-polished granite, on the horizon the white cliffs of Bonifacio in Corsica.
The Roccia dell’Elefante near Castelsardo – right by the road, impossible to miss.
The Roccia dell’Elefante near Castelsardo – right by the road, impossible to miss.
La Maddalena archipelago – the water is so clear you can see the bottom from the boat.
La Maddalena archipelago – the water is so clear you can see the bottom from the boat.
Exploring the archipelago by rental boat – the coves can only be reached from the water.
Exploring the archipelago by rental boat – the coves can only be reached from the water.
The Maltese Falcon, one of the largest sailing yachts in the world, off the Costa Smeralda.
The Maltese Falcon, one of the largest sailing yachts in the world, off the Costa Smeralda.
Yachts off the coast – in summer this is where everything that no longer fits in Monaco anchors.
Yachts off the coast – in summer this is where everything that no longer fits in Monaco anchors.
Porto Cervo, Piazzetta – aperitivo among the villas of the Costa Smeralda. Expensive, but once is part of the experience.
Porto Cervo, Piazzetta – aperitivo among the villas of the Costa Smeralda. Expensive, but once is part of the experience.
Beach on the Costa Smeralda – jetties, straw parasols and water that looks exaggerated on every postcard and yet is exactly like that.
Beach on the Costa Smeralda – jetties, straw parasols and water that looks exaggerated on every postcard and yet is exactly like that.
Swimming cove on the north-east coast – the prettiest coves are reached by short footpaths from the road.
Swimming cove on the north-east coast – the prettiest coves are reached by short footpaths from the road.
San Pantaleo – the artists’ village behind the Costa Smeralda, with granite mountains at its back.
San Pantaleo – the artists’ village behind the Costa Smeralda, with granite mountains at its back.
Schatzi in San Pantaleo – jewellery and crafts, market on the piazza on Thursdays.
Schatzi in San Pantaleo – jewellery and crafts, market on the piazza on Thursdays.
Bar on the piazza of San Pantaleo – a coffee under the hydrangeas before moving on.
Bar on the piazza of San Pantaleo – a coffee under the hydrangeas before moving on.
Oggetti Rari – an iron donkey outside the shop; the Sardinians have a humour of their own.
Oggetti Rari – an iron donkey outside the shop; the Sardinians have a humour of their own.

The interior: Barbagia

Lago di Gusana near Gavoi, in the heart of the Barbagia – a rest stop on the mountain road from Nuoro to Fonni.
Lago di Gusana near Gavoi, in the heart of the Barbagia – a rest stop on the mountain road from Nuoro to Fonni.
At Lago di Gusana: here you are alone, the roads are empty and winding – motorcycle country.
At Lago di Gusana: here you are alone, the roads are empty and winding – motorcycle country.
Bar Pizzeria Punto Zero in a mountain village of the Barbagia – the murals on the house walls are typical of the region (Orgosolo has more than 150).
Bar Pizzeria Punto Zero in a mountain village of the Barbagia – the murals on the house walls are typical of the region (Orgosolo has more than 150).
Sunrise over the hinterland – set off early and you have the roads to yourself.
Sunrise over the hinterland – set off early and you have the roads to yourself.
Breakfast by the pool – in the hinterland hotels cost half as much as on the Costa Smeralda.
Breakfast by the pool – in the hinterland hotels cost half as much as on the Costa Smeralda.

South

Beach at Buggerru in the south-west – wild coast, hardly anyone around, I was here by motorcycle (Hotel La Rosa dei Venti).
Beach at Buggerru in the south-west – wild coast, hardly anyone around, I was here by motorcycle (Hotel La Rosa dei Venti).
The Poetto near Cagliari – eight kilometres of city beach, by bus or bike from the centre.
The Poetto near Cagliari – eight kilometres of city beach, by bus or bike from the centre.

Eating in Sardinia

Sardinia is an island of shepherds, not fishermen – you can tell from the food: pecorino, suckling pig (porceddu), culurgiones and pane carasau come from the mountains; on the coast add lobster from Alghero, bottarga from Cabras, mussels and fried calamari. With it a Cannonau, the island’s red wine, and a mirto to finish.

Antipasto sardo at Sa Moriska in Villasimius – pecorino, salsiccia, olives, pane carasau; the bar is the village meeting point.
Antipasto sardo at Sa Moriska in Villasimius – pecorino, salsiccia, olives, pane carasau; the bar is the village meeting point.
Mussels in tomato sauce with toasted bread – fresh in every restaurant on the coast.
Mussels in tomato sauce with toasted bread – fresh in every restaurant on the coast.
Linguine all’aragosta – lobster pasta, the speciality of Alghero and the north coast.
Linguine all’aragosta – lobster pasta, the speciality of Alghero and the north coast.
Gnocchi with clams and bottarga (salted mullet roe) – bottarga is the Sardinian gold from Cabras.
Gnocchi with clams and bottarga (salted mullet roe) – bottarga is the Sardinian gold from Cabras.
Culurgiones – the Sardinian ravioli with potato, pecorino and mint, from the Ogliastra.
Culurgiones – the Sardinian ravioli with potato, pecorino and mint, from the Ogliastra.
Calamari fritti with salicornia (sea asparagus) – simple, but freshly caught it tastes different.
Calamari fritti with salicornia (sea asparagus) – simple, but freshly caught it tastes different.

My tips for Sardinia

  • Ferry instead of flying if you come with your own car or motorcycle: overnight from Genoa or Livorno to Olbia or Porto Torres – I book via faehreonline.com, where all the ferry companies are compared.
  • If you fly, you need a car: I compare rental cars from Olbia, Cagliari or Alghero on Discover Cars.
  • The Roccia dell’Elefante near Castelsardo, the Grotta di Ispinigoli near Dorgali and the Galleria Henry in Buggerru are three stops no guidebook should leave out – rightly so.
  • In the interior (Orgosolo, Supramonte) you eat the best suckling pig (porceddu) on the island – book the agriturismi ahead.

Where to stay?

Six hotels in five regions – from north to south. Each can be booked on Booking.com; where the hotel has its own website, it is linked too.

Hotel Nibaru
Cala di Volpe (Arzachena) · 4 stars

Costa Smeralda without Porto Cervo prices: several buildings in the typical style between granite and maquis, 600 metres to the beach.
Hotel Baia Aranzos
Golfo Aranci (Pittulongu) · 4 stars · family resort

Family resort on three hectares of maquis, 400 metres from its own beach and 15 kilometres from Olbia airport.
Green Sporting Club Hotel
Alghero · Sports & wellness hotel

One kilometre from the Catalan old town of Alghero – with 25-metre pool, gym and restaurant.
Hotel Ispinigoli
Dorgali · 3 stars · family-run

Family hotel behind the mountains of Cala Gonone, two steps from the Grotta di Ispinigoli and ten minutes from the beach.
La Rosa dei Venti
Buggerru · Small hotel in the centre

The emptiest coast of the island: five minutes’ walk to the beach, view of the little harbour – and dogs are welcome.
Boutique Hotel Su Sergenti
Villasimius · boutique hotel · Booking 8.6

Colonial style in the heart of Villasimius – terrace with pool, breakfast from the family farm, two kilometres to the beaches.

Find accommodation in Sardinia

I almost always compare hotels, apartments and guesthouses on Booking.com – with genuine reviews and usually free cancellation.

See accommodation in Sardinia Compare on Hotels.com Holiday rental on Vrbo
Affiliate links: if you book I earn a small commission – the price stays the same for you, and sometimes you even get an extra discount. Hotels.com is worth it for comparing prices and for the loyalty programme (every tenth night free), Vrbo for holiday homes and apartments.

Live selection from TourRadar – prices in your currency, updates automatically.

← All destinations