Andalusia by Motorbike

Full disclosure: driven by car, made for a motorbike

I was in Andalusia by car and drove the roads between Estepona, Ronda, Seville, Córdoba, Jerez and Gibraltar – and on almost every kilometre I was annoyed not to be on a motorbike. The road from San Pedro de Alcántara up to Ronda, the hairpins through the Sierra de Grazalema, the White Villages on the hillsides: this is bend country like the Alps, only with olive groves, 25 degrees in April and hardly any traffic.

So here is the route the way I'll ride it next time on the motorbike. It begins and ends in Málaga, because that's where the flights are cheap and the motorbike hire companies are based – and because you then start on the coast and finish in the mountains.

Getting there: fly to Málaga, motorbike on the spot

From Zurich or Basel it's a good two and a half hours' flight to Málaga. Bringing your own motorbike isn't worth it for a week – the ride through France and half of Spain takes three days each way. In Málaga several companies hire out BMW GS, Triumph Tiger and Harleys from around 100 to 150 francs a day, panniers and sat nav included. For travelling companions who prefer four wheels, I compare hire cars as always at Discover Cars.

The route: seven stages through Andalusia

Day 1, Málaga – Estepona (90 km): Pick up the motorbike, then the coast road west – Marbella with its promenade, then Estepona with its old town full of flower pots. First night at the Grand Hotel Las Dunas right on the sea, where I stayed myself, or at The Flag Hotel in the old town.

Day 2, Estepona – Gibraltar – Tarifa – Vejer (170 km): Gibraltar in the morning (don't forget your passport; crossing the border on a motorbike is straightforward), up the Rock to the monkeys, then the A-7 to Tarifa, the southernmost point of Europe with views of Morocco. Overnight in Vejer de la Frontera, one of the most beautiful White Villages.

Day 3, Vejer – Jerez – Arcos de la Frontera (140 km): Along the coast past Cádiz to Jerez: a sherry bodega (no tasting for the rider, but Tio Pepe makes a good photo), then up to Arcos, perched on a rock above the Guadalete.

Day 4, Arcos – Grazalema – Zahara – Ronda (120 km): The best day. The A-372 through the Sierra de Grazalema, the Puerto de las Palomas at 1,350 metres, Zahara de la Sierra by the reservoir, then Setenil de las Bodegas with its houses built under the rock. Ronda in the evening, the Puente Nuevo in the evening light. Two nights.

Day 5, Ronda loop (150 km): Without luggage: down the A-397 to San Pedro (the famous bends, 50 kilometres of hairpins) and back along the A-366 via El Burgo. Or north to Olvera along the old railway line. Lunch in a village, afternoon in Ronda.

Day 6, Ronda – Antequera – Córdoba (200 km): Over the mountains to Antequera (the El Torcal rock formations, a half-hour detour that's worth it), then through the sea of olive trees to Córdoba. In the evening, the Roman bridge with a view of the Mezquita.

Day 7, Córdoba – Málaga (170 km): The Mezquita in the morning (at 8.30, before the groups), then the A-45 through the mountains of the Subbética back to Málaga, return the motorbike, evening flight.

If you have more time, add Seville (on day 3 or after Córdoba) or the Alpujarras south of Granada – that makes it ten days. For all the towns and my photos, see the Andalusia destination page.

Guided tours instead of going it alone

If you'd rather not deal with routes and hotels: Edelweiss Bike Travel and other operators run Andalusia tours from Málaga in spring and autumn with a support vehicle – usually eight days, motorbike and hotels included. The current offers are in the motorbike section.